EMILIO PUCCI RESORT 2011

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Peter Dundas is still coming off the high of seeing his dresses on the red carpet at Cannes last month. "It's nice to be on an elevator going up," he said, rather fittingly, at a penthouse presentation of his Resort collection for Pucci.

The Florentine label has that famous Mediterranean summer vibe in its blood lines, and with a coffee-table book on the history of the house coming out later this summer, Dundas had lots of material to rifle through for inspiration.

Channeling Jane Birkin, Julie Christie, Bianca Jagger, and their fabulous kind, he turned out long-sleeve minidresses in guipure lace; sheer, breezy caftans to wear over matching bikinis; and seventies-inflected washed linen three-piece suits.

But this wasn't a retro rehash. Exploring effects similar to the ones he used for Fall, the designer purposely faded or over-dyed the house's familiar prints; the cotton silk voile tank dresses didn't look as if they'd been worn every summer for years, but, thanks to the treatments, they felt as soft as if they had been.

After dark, Dundas amped up the sex appeal—a key factor in the energy he's brought to this house. Those micro-minidresses that got all that publicity in Cannes are back and beaded all over in a butterfly motif. More celebrity material for the next Pucci retrospective.

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Hanne Gaby Odiele

VERA WANG PRE-FALL 2010.

VERA WANG

PRE-FALL 2010 COLLECTION

Vera Wang's ready-to-wear is synonymous with a sort of artsy dressiness, so her pre-fall collection of tailoring, structured outerwear, and body-hugging knits was something of a departure.

"I'm pushing myself out of my comfort zone," the designer said.

But Wang seems quite assured working with these new categories.

A boy blazer in charcoal wool twill with a double lapel in darker gray was coolly confident.

If her client isn't quite ready to work a suit (the jacket was paired here with a short, sculpted skirt), Wang included plenty of the layerable lean basketball T-shirts and leggings she's long been known for.

Black tinsel trim on hems and Mongolian lamb swatches on pockets or shoulders ensured that her parkas and anoraks looked signature, too.

And despite the fact that she was focused mostly on daywear (retailers are looking for versatility and low cost per wear), she showed one of her most stunning evening looks in a long time.

It was a tulle T-shirt dress with a swirl of multicolor paillettes, sequins, and beads on the front and simple black jersey on the back.

It'll be expensive, but it'll be worth it.

MODEL:

HANNE GABY ODIELE

MODEL:

KATE KOSUSHKINA

MODEL:

ANABELA BELIKOVA