Storm Irene: Dior Homme Spring 2010 Men´s.

Reinaldo Berthoti

"Cold Love" was the name Kris Van Assche gave his latest collection for Dior Homme. If only.

The temperature in his venue hit surface-of-the-sun levels.

But in a way the designer surely couldn't have anticipated, the heat served to heighten appreciation of his layers of ultralight tailoring.

Thiago Santos

Detaching the superfluity of a sleeve when everyone feels like going as bare as possible made sense.

And making a tailored blazer as sheer as possible was a sensible sartorial response to climactic change.

Sven Guhle

Van Assche has always had his own kind of gym-influenced body consciousness, manifest here in a mesh top under a sheer cardigan, or knits woven in the lightest gauge, with the footwear a hefty high-top.

The shirt-weight tailoring was a new development, and the translucence of a parka over a sleeveless jacket ensnared a couple of the season's trends.

For evening, Van Assche suggested kimonolike lapels on another something sleeveless. At the very least—and in contrast to some of his previous Dior Homme efforts—all the pared-down athleticism gives him a platform to build on for the future.