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Thursday, October 1, 2009

MaxMara Spring 2010 RTW.

Natasha Poly

The military push has reached MaxMara for Spring. Elsewhere, it might be rugged, politically pointed, or bound for summer festivals, but here it's aimed at different territory: the domain of the grown-up city woman. There's nothing wrong with that, of course.


Aline Weber

Olive and khaki and the detailing found on trenchcoats, camp shirts, cargo pants, and parkas have a fashion bandwidth that can stretch to the classic. At MaxMara, there's always a need to search for a sane device to ground the collection, and this one looked right.

Abbey Lee

Something about the treatment—drapey satin coats over matching shirts and pants, suede trousers, pencil skirts—recalled the heyday of early-eighties working-woman style, a look that emanated from Italy and had a corresponding period of popularity in American sportswear.

Rose Cordero

The retro feel wasn't all that overt, but it was detectable in the rounded dolman-raglan sleeve—the curved version of the outsize shoulder that, back in the day, came fully furnished with a giant set of pads.

Sasha Pivovarova

MaxMara is smart to have avoided that particular literalism. Any over-egging of theme or reference is unwise in this collection. For the most part, the design team kept to the straight and narrow with the pragmatic utilitarian daywear that is this company's strong suit—though they did give in to the temptation to do a luxury camouflage patchwork coat and a strapless military evening gown. Doubtful that those will ever really get worn, but the rest? Absolutely.

Eniko Mihalik

Kamila Filipcikova

Freja Beha Erichsen

Maryna Linchuk

Karlie Kloss

Tao Okamoto

Kinga Rajzak

Constance Jablonski
Rianne Ten Haken

Dorothea Barth Jorgensen

Melodie Dagault

Jacquelyn Jablonski

Elsa Sylvan

Alla

Rose Cordero

Natasha Poly

Aline Weber

Maryna Linchuk

Sasha Pivovarova

Vlada Roslyakova

Madisyn Ritland

Bianca Balti

Dorothea Barth Jorgensen

Eniko Mihalik

Ieva Laguna

Karlie Kloss

Melodie Dagault

Tao Okamoto

Aminata Niaria

Elsa Sylvan

Aline Weber

Freja Beha Erichsen

Abbey Lee

Natasha Poly

Maryna Linchuk

Vlada Roslyakova

Rose Cordero

Rianne Ten Haken

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