Storm Irene: Armani Privé

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Armani Privé spring 2010 Couture

"It's about the moon," explained Giorgio Armani before his show.

Kasia Struss (WOMEN)

"I always need a hook to get into a collection, and that was it—thinking about something romantic and dreamy, far away from our everyday life. Something less harsh."

Jac (IMG)

The lunar references, he pointed out, were poured into luminescent fabrics, curviform cutting, embroideries made to look like the craters of the moon, and a crescent-shaped updo for the hair, which, he smiled, "is also a bit of a joke."

Heidi Mount (IMG)

It made for a lightened-up Armani Privé show as he cut skirts from overlapping semicircles and worked curves into the peplums of jackets that were fastened with half-moon mother-of-pearl pins.

Agnese Zogla (SPRY)

At times there was a slight touch of 2001: A Space Odyssey uniform about it (see the leg-molded flares), and it was surely an intentional moment of humor when Vlada Roslyakova advanced along the runway impersonating the full moon in a giant disc of milky sheer-white organza.

Angelika Kocheva (MARILYN)

For evening, there were many renderings of sparkling silver beading, pale metallic pinks and greens, synthetic moiré treatments of organza, and paillettes shot with flashes of electric blue—an Armani merging of haute dressmaking and high tech.

Frida Gustavsson (IMG)

The serious chic—the looks certain to be most ruthlessly competed for pre-Academy Awards—all came from the dark side of the moon.

Sigrid Agren (ELITE)

There were three of them, slivers of black constructed with various asymmetric deployments of white or cream in the back or along the flanks.

Vlada Roslyakova (WOMEN)

The result: lengthening, figure-narrowing illusions that will have the A-listers jostling to eclipse the competition at that event, soon as poss.

Ginta Lapina (WOMEN)

Alana Zimmer (WOMEN)

Daria Strokous (WOMEN)

Skye Stracke (VIVA)

Siri Tollerød (MARILYN)

Linda Vojtova (NATHALIE)

Elsa Sylvan (VIVA)

Kim Noorda (VIVA)

Kamila Filipcikova (IMG)

Iris Strubegger (WOMEN)

Kasia Struss (WOMEN)

Karlie Kloss (NEXT)

Katsia Zingarevich (ELITE)

Dorothea Barth Jorgensen (ELITE)

Kelli Lumi (MAJOR)

Anastasia Gorodilova (ELITE)

Angelika Kocheva (MARILYN)

Frida Gustavsson (IMG)

Ginta Lapina (WOMEN)

Sigrid Agren (ELITE)

Alana Zimmer (WOMEN)

Skye Stracke (VIVA)

Daria Strokous (WOMEN)

Vlada Roslyakova (WOMEN)

Siri Tollerød (MARILYN)

Elsa Sylvan (VIVA)

Heidi Mount (IMG)

Jac (IMG)

Kasia Struss (WOMEN)

Karlie Kloss (NEXT)

Iris Strubegger (WOMEN)

GIORGIO ARMANI

Friday, July 10, 2009

Armani Privé Fall 2009 Couture.

Phenelope (WOMEN)

The pantsuit—recast with a drapey new glamour—is staging a subtle comeback at Paris couture, and if anyone's looking for a made-to-measure version, Giorgio Armani is the man with a lifetime's authority on the subject.

Toni Garrn (WOMEN)

His show, cast in monochrome with glinting highlights of silver, focused on jackets with rounded pagoda shoulders over softly pleated pants with an easy elegance about them.

Kim Noorda (VIVA)

From the opening looks—steel gray tailoring with large diamanté buttons—he was on home ground.

Karmen Pedaru (NEXT)

Armani said he'd been influenced by black-and-white movie heroines and set the show to forties movie soundtracks, but the feel wasn't overtly retro.

Sigrid Agren (ELITE)

His best looks—wispy black lace T-shirts fashioned in a grid pattern and slipped under suits in black velvet or paillettes, along with the odd sportswear touch like an ivory hoodie and a lace polo shirt—brought a sense of the casual into the mix.

Veronika Pospisilova (WOMEN)

The rest of the collection covered the classic mainstays of the Armani couture business: skirtsuits; jet-beaded cocktail pieces; and long, slim evening dresses.

Kasia Struss (WOMEN)

But the finale was an adventurous step away from the predictable: four silver and nude mesh crystal-embellished jumpsuits—another statement about the fashion relevance of wearing pants.