Storm Irene: jesus luz

Monday, July 6, 2009

Givenchy Spring 2010 Men´s.

Jamil

Michael Jackson found out about Riccardo Tisci through the pieces of Givenchy's womenswear he'd been wearing, and that's how Tisci came to be working on costumes for Jackson's engagement at the O2 Centre in London.

Armand O

The potential collaboration inspired the gold-star-studded pieces the designer showed in Givenchy’s new menswear collection.

He was due to meet his new client for the first time on Monday.

Keith Hernandez

Then Destiny intervened—meaning those pieces may eventually be Elvis-like holy relics.

Steffen Weng

But they were scarcely the high points in a presentation that saw Tisci finally coordinating ambition and reality.

Edward

Put simply, he loosened up—mostly.

After the show, the designer claimed his retail success with his leggings and Bermudas (the mosh-pit couture that defined his first two menswear collections for Givenchy) had given him the confidence to try something more elegant, hence the occasionally overwrought tailoring in the show, including trousers with a built-in cummerbund and a silk-lapelled suit.

Henry Watkins

But with Tisci insisting his theme was "Latino Boy Goes to Morocco" (his Latino boy is always going somewhere), the real heart of the collection was surely in the North African-inflected, layered activewear.

It gelled very effectively with the shorts-over-leggings silhouette he's been offering for the past two seasons (which seems to have been adopted for Spring 2010 by a flying wedge of his peers), and gave the clothes a ferociously sexy athleticism, helped along by a model casting that ranged far and wide across the globe.

Using high-performance fabrics in a mosaiclike print founded on the star motif, Tisci came up with his own version of a sports uniform.

The gladiator footwear suggested something arena-based.

Dominique Hollington

Ariel Seitler

Abiah Hostvedt

Jesus Luz

Henry Watkins

Keith Hernandez

Adam Refoufi

Jamil

Junior

Dominique Hollington

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Dolce & Gabbana Spring 2010 Men´s.

Noah Mills

"Sparkling." How else was Stefano Gabbana going to describe his mood after a show that put on the glitz to a degree so OTT it bordered on the satirical? It had all the skin and shimmer, flesh and flash of a Vegas review—except it was men rather than showgirls up there on that stage.

Jesus Luz

The peach in the fruit bowl was Jesus Luz, who emerged in a black silk tux shirt—and matching bathing suit. Given his designation as Madonna's innamorato, he looked appropriately insecure.

Vladimir Ivanov

The label's resident male, David Gandy, appeared anything but as he redefined twenty-first-century beefcake in a pair of severely truncated white trunks.

Jesper Lund

Domenico and Stefano recently mentioned that the Sicilian pinstripes-and-black suit signature can become a little oppressive for them.

Cory Bond

So they sensibly honored their heritage with a handful of sober classics, then cut loose with extravagant flights of gilded fancy, strewing crystals with fierce abandon all over jackets, jeans, and accessories.

Garrett Neff

Anyone seeking some kind of fashion statement from the duo might take note of the chunky yet summer-weight knitwear, or the artful perforation of skins, or maybe even the resuscitation of the borsellino, known vernacularly—and mockingly—as the "murse."

Sebastian Lund

Otherwise, Dolce & Gabbana went hell-bent for glam, mixing day and night into a seamless 24 hours—and sending out a finale that was a nonpareil hymn to the beader's craft.